
Keeping a blog has played an important role in motivating me to pay attention and live in the moment. "Live each day as a writer," I used to urge my students. Writers find ways to make sense of, organize, and utilize the details of the world they see. We went on an outing shortly after our arrival in Tucson this year that has been replaying itself in my head, urging me to explore it.
It took place on a day before the sadness of January 8th had hit. We were hosting 4 dear longtime friends from out of town, deciding what sites to visit to get a sense of Tucson and environs. First stop: the Saguaro National Forest West. To get there we rode through gorgeous Gates Pass along switchback roads up high into the mountains. Breathtaking views energized us to continue to the Visitors' Center at the park. (Not before we had them pose spelling out OHIO in tribute to the OSU connection they share with Michael!) At the welcome center we watched a video, narrated in the familiar slow cadence of the native American, that introduced the relationship of the Tohono O'odhams to saquaro cactus. You can't visit Tucson without becoming enthralled by these "gumby" cacti. They are unlike anything we midwesterners can imagine. I wrote about them last year, but want to shift the focus a bit this time.
The Tohono O'odham, a native American culture group whose name means "people of the desert," make up a nation that currently includes 25,000, living mainly in southern Arizona, but also in Sonora, Mexico. For the Tohono O'odham the saguaro cactus is an honored relative, as they explain in the video we watched. When you hike through a "forest" of saguaros they do actually look like a community of people, some huddled together, some with arms outstretched, some with arms uplifted, some larger ones sheltering smaller ones like individual family sculptures. As we learned, the saguaros don't sprout "arms" until they are at least 70 years old. Many, then, that we see daily have been around for centuries. I find myself thinking of trips to Italy, France, and Greece and the feeling there of being immersed in a timeless history. Well, here is a similarly timeless history, only it's nature-made as opposed to man-made.
The cactus provides for both the physical and spiritual sustenance of the Tohono O'odham. Saguaros produce fruit at the top that is harvested in the spring by these natives. They make saguaro wine, jam, jellies, candy (tastes like those Passover sugar-coated jellied fruit slices!) and then celebrate a rain feast in honor of the coming monsoon season. Rain and water play such an important role in the lives of Tohono O'odham because of the very arid region in which they live. We left there immersed in the cultural significance of our surroundings.
And then...lunch at In N Out Burgers! Now that's a whole different culture, for sure. We watched the 'regulars' order their burgers "animal style," an option not shown on the menu but available to those in the know. We Chicagoans proudly tout our Chicago dogs, served "through the garden." Westerners are gaga for In N Out and it's easy to see why. We thank David, who spent several years in California, for turning us on to them.
The afternoon brought us to the Stone Avenue Temple, now home to the Tucson Jewish History Museum. Our visit there highlighted the historical journey of Jews in southern Arizona, a topic we knew little about. This temple, established in 1910, was the first Jewish house of worship in the Arizona Territory before Arizona achieved statehood. It served as an important center of Jewish community for the entire southwest. Originally advertised as "the Jewish church" and then Temple Emanu-el, the building had subsequently been used as a church, a theatre, and a Mexican radio station before going vacant and providing shelter for the homeless. It has since been lovingly and painstakingly restored as a fascinating museum. A friend of a friend had been closely involved in the renovations and he came to talk to us and give us the inside scoop. Fascinating. Culture and history bloom there with such pride after so much effort and community involvement. There is a wonderful slide show showing the renovations on their website.
http://www.jewishhistorymuseum.org/ While we were there waiting for our tour to begin, a gentleman came in behind us. He announced to the tour guide that he was a Yaqui and asked permission to tour the exhibit. He meant no disrespect, he explained, and we were drawn into his increasingly louder discussion with the docent, who was busy assuring him that all were welcome there. The gentleman, very knowledgeable in history of all kinds, insisted on pointing out the connections between the Yaquis and the Jews. He bordered, at times, on belligerence, but we soon came to understand that he was not deranged, just very passionate about history and his culture's experience.
When we came home I looked up some information on the Yaquis. Originating in the northern Mexican state of Sonora, Yaquis struggled for independence from Mexico and the wars between the two brought many Yaquis to Arizona. Porfirio Diaz, during his regime in Mexico, began a policy of ethnic transfer of the Yaquis, removing them from Sonora to the Yucatan peninsula where they were persecuted and enslaved. I could understand why 'our Yaqui' felt a kinship with the Jews, and I wondered if he was disappointed or heartened when he discovered that this Jewish museum, unlike the Holocaust museums, focused solely on the gains and vibrancy of a culture rather than on its destruction.
The collision of cultures was not part of our expectation on that day we set out to explore Tucson. Yet, there it was, knocking on my writer's brain, encouraging me to pay attention. Glad I did. Cultural pride blooms everywhere it is planted.